Surveying silk fibre degradation by crystallinity determination: a study on the Tang dynasty silk treasure from Famen Temple, China

When Chinese archaeologists opened an unknown vault under the collapsed pagoda of Famen Temple near Xian (Shaanxi Province, NW China) in 1987, they found a vast amount of valuable silk textiles. The degraded textiles were part of a treasure comprising hundreds of artifacts deposited by Tang dynasty (ad 618–907) emperors as a gift to the temple. Run as a bilateral German-Chinese project, the Roemisch-Germanisches Zentralmuseum Mainz established a textile conservation laboratory in Shaanxi ́s provincial capital Xian in 2001, joining numerous other laboratories that have existed there since the early 1990s. This preliminary study represents part of an ongoing investigation programme that accompanies the conservation work. The Tang dynasty silk is generally in a very poor state of preservation as a result of its long burial period. Large sections have only survived as an amorphous brown mass of fibre debris. Some parts are better preserved, however, offering the unique opportunity to study the whole range of degradation stages on ancient silks. This preliminary scientific investigation focuses on the determination of the silk fibres’ crystallinity and its relation to the ageing process. As we know from modern material, silk is mainly crystalline, albeit in a somewhat amorphous state. The methods of investigation used were X-ray diffraction (XRD) using synchrotron radiation, which is a new way to determine crystallinity of ancient silk fibres; and polarized Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) for the determination of crystallite orientation. Both methods were specifically devised to gain information on small single fibres.